Oh boy is this one a revelation – and possibly my favorite cocktail of all time. This is a bona fide gateway drug to introduce anyone to bourbon and amari. It’s an equal-parts cocktail, essentially a riff on the Last Word. It features Amaro Nonino Quintessentia, an Italian amaro with a grappa base, and notes of botanicals, alpine herbs, and orange peel. In a pinch, Amaro Montenegro is a good substitute.

Although the drink seems like it came out of the heyday of pre-Prohibition bar culture, it was actually invented in 2008 by award-winning bartender Sam Ross (who also created the Penicillin). The drink first appeared on the opening menu of The Violet Hour in Chicago, a bar where Ross was consulting. It was so popular in Chicago that he brought it back to his bar Milk & Honey in New York City and the rest is history.

The M.I.A. hit Paper Plane was the inspiration for the name, and the drink was garnished with a tiny paper airplane. Ross recommends a higher-proof bourbon and warns not to overshake the drink; it’s easy to over dilute.

You can also try substituting grapefruit juice for lemon to make the Esprit d’Escalier or replace bourbon with tequila for the Avion de Papel.